Saturday, January 30

Surfing

I am totally busting to tell someone about the most beautiful and fun surf that I had this morning and my husband is out playing golf so here I am... although I know that probably only a couple of you reading this will really appreciate it as much as I did.

After a short little drive to one of my most recently frequented locations it wasn’t looking very appealing for a surf. The waves were breaking right on the beach because of the almost full tide and there was nothing at all out ‘the back’ so I climbed back into my car slightly disheartened because after all it is the weekend and I really didn’t feel like going back home and doing housework!

So I drove back towards home and decided to check out a more popular spot hoping that there would be something to at least get wet for and if there was... not too many others already out there. As I drove into the carpark there were only two other cars and I sadly thought ‘this isn’t looking very promising’ but I will have a quick look anyway and perhaps have a swim instead.

If there are any of you who like to have a little surf you will know what the anticipation of walking up the path towards the beach is all about. I could hear some waves lightly crashing on the sand and as I came over the crest of the sand dunes it was just beautiful... clean 2ft waves, light offshore winds, slightly overcast and there were only about four others sitting out there!

I quickly raced back to the car, grabbed my board, walked back up the path, threw on my wetsuit and jumped into the water. The water was clear bluey-green and I could easily see the sand on the bottom, even out the back.

Within two minutes I was paddling onto a nice clean 2ft wave and caught it all the way into the beach. I paddled out again and after another two minutes caught another little wave. I paddled back out and sat on my board in the water for a while waiting for another perfect wave.

The waves died off a little bit and I looked out towards the ocean and on the horizon was a huge thick dark black storm cloud. It was gradually getting darker and darker around me and looked like it was about to pour with rain but then the sun ever so slightly peaked just over the top of this huge monster of a cloud and was glistening onto the water around me making it look like glass... it was absolutely gorgeous!! I sat out there in awe of the beauty that God had created for me to enjoy on this beautiful Saturday morning. I wish I had my camera so that I could have taken a photo because it was an amazing sight.

I caught a couple more waves and then it started to rain... the glassy waves looked even more inviting and the drops of fresh water running down my face were like heaven!

As I mentioned at the beginning, probably only a few will really appreciate what this picture is really like in reality but I’m sure that God creates special moments in creation for each and every one of us to enjoy every day and for us to realise how big and awesome He really is. It is good to get outside and see God in creation and appreciate what He has made for us.

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